In the hammam you never start by scrubbing. The first room, the mildest of the three, is there to let the body get used to the heat. You sit, drink a little water and wait for the skin to open. Ten minutes is enough, but it is not to be skipped.
A traditional hammam usually has three rooms, from the mildest to the hottest, and you move through them in that order. Ours, the hot room or bayt skhoun, stays at around forty-five degrees, with dense steam renewed throughout the day. It is not a test of endurance: if the heat becomes uncomfortable, you go back and sit in the warm room, and carry on when your body is ready.
The soap, then the kessa
In the hot room, black soap is spread over the whole body and left for five to ten minutes. It does not lather; it softens dead skin. It is rinsed off with the tassa in warm water, and only then does the kessa glove come in, with long, firm strokes.
The order is what makes the difference. Scrubbing skin that has not warmed up irritates instead of smoothing. Well-prepared skin lets its dead cells go almost by itself, and the session stays gentle even for sensitive skin.
Ghassoul and rest
Next comes ghassoul, the washing clay mixed with rose or orange-blossom water. It goes on the body and through the hair, then rinses away without drying. A final, cooler rinse closes the pores before you leave.
Resting is part of the treatment. Wrapped in a fouta, you lie down quietly with mint tea and a few dates while your body cools. If you are pregnant, or have blood-pressure or heart concerns, tell us beforehand: the heat can be adjusted and some steps replaced.
